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This page covers all sorts of
stuff. To the creative mind nothing is ever
useless or out of date, so that's why it's here, you will find it
useful. |
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The above is a photo of a two part plaster
mold which still contains the cast hollow latex rubber spaceman
suit. The object was to make a stop motion
character with armature inside so it could be animated on
film. I made this years ago and now use 3D
computer animation instead. Then the other day I was in the library and
came across a book on how to make models for stop motion filming. I was
both surprised and disappointed at the same time. This must be an old
book… but no it was published in 2004. What I would not have given for
such a book years ago and I thought … typical they never show you how
until it's too late. Then this morning it occurred to me
(yes I should have thought of it sooner,) that the reason I did not think
of it sooner was that I'd thought of all the possibilities that were
available to me at the time and stored it in the back of my head as nice
idea but not really practical. But then this morning I thought almost
anyone could afford to do this now with just a digital camera and a
tripod. Hardly a new idea I am sure but it illustrates how we put ideas
away and don't revisit them later with new tools and technologies as we
decided long ago that what ever the idea was did not work then so move on.
This modern notion of moving on is quite an uncreative concept and leads
to nothing but lost opportunities. Let me make a new saying which is more
useful then the MOVE ON version…...MOVE ON, BUT KEEP AN EYE ON THE REAR
VIEW MIRROR. So in the interest of ...nothing is
obsolete… I have put this page together hopping it might be useful
information. |
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Keep modeling till he looks correct.
You will see in the modeling of the heads I use ball bearings for the
eyes, makes it a little easier to model. At left you see the almost finished latex
model all painted, but put the skeleton in through the neck first
otherwise all the stretching will mess up your paint work. Now for the info about casting as seen at
top. Make a two part plaster mold from your clay model with skeleton still
inside, let set, remove clay model, pull skeleton out of clay, clean it,
it will later go inside the latex hollow model. Carve fill channel and air holes so that
you don't trap air inside when filling with latex. Close mold, seal with clay. Caution, do not
put any release agent, clay, or Vaseline on the inside of the mold because
if you do it will never work. Totally fill mold with liquid latex , plug
any air holes as latex comes out and leave it standing full over night (put
it in a bucket in case it leeks, you will never get set latex out of your
carpet if it gets on it). In the morning pour the latex back into it's
container( what comes out is still good and you can use it for other
models) let the mold sit undisturbed for a day, then carefully open it to
reveal a white coloured model. Be very careful, it is quite fragile while
it is white, only after it is a honey colour is it strong enough to insert
the skeleton . How does it work and come out hollow? The
plaster sucks up the water from the latex leaving a thickish latex layer,
you pour out the liquid part and the thick latex left on the inside walls
of the plaster mold sets to become your model. Word of caution. Keep your plaster mold as
the rubber latex model will only last 5 years or so, maybe less as it
putrefies, so keep in mind that you will need to replace it in the
future. So now you have a character that you could
use to make a film. Just move it frame by frame and take photos with your
digital camera, put the sequence together in a editing program and out put
as say QuickTime .mov I know it's not an original idea, but it
may prove helpful to some one. |
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First I made a skeleton. The ball joints
you see are ball bearings. I heat them red hot and let them cool slowly so
that they are now soft enough to drill a hole through, the size of the
wire rods. Then I sweat solder it to the wire rod. I originally tried
skipping the drilling and soldered it to the wire end but if you do this
you will find that it break's off. If you had a lath you could turn the
ball and rod as one part, but I don't have a lath. The balls are clamped between two brass
plates with counter sunk holes to hold the balls in place. One of the
plates is taped and a brass screw is adjusted so the pressure is enough to
still allow movement, You will note in the photo the screws still
need to be cut short . The body is two sheets of Perspex with
counter sunk holes to take the balls and it is clamped with three screws
and nuts. This skeleton is later inserted through the
neck of the rubber latex suit which will be cast in the mold you see
above. Now model your character over the skeleton
(this way you know it will fit. |
